Chef and Hotelier Rōze Traore Shares His Upper East Side Story

By David Graver View the full issue. A visionary multi-hyphenate, Rōze Traore is just as well-known for his work as a private chef and culinary curator as he is for his modeling career—where he walked the runway in the debut menswear show for Hermès in New York City and more. Traore studied at Le Cordon Bleu and worked at both Eleven Madison Park and the NoMad Hotel’s acclaimed restaurant. It’s his exclusive private events on the Upper East Side that grant him a distinct vantage point of the neighborhood. Can you tell us your Upper East Side story? I have a deep affection for and personal history with the Upper East Side. In fact, much of my time is spent on the Upper East Side these days, at art galleries and at the Guggenheim, where I recently hosted a dinner and the debut of my art exhibition series. Many of the private events and bespoke dinners that I’ve curated over the years have taken place on the Upper East Side, and there’s always such a sophistication about these gatherings. Hosting a dinner at a prewar Upper East Side townhouse is one of my favorite backdrops. The kitchens are well-equipped, and the diners appreciate the beauty of my food. Can you describe what it’s like heading to the Guggenheim for work? To me, this area of the Upper East Side is the essence of NYC. It’s charming, neighborhood-centric and many of the people have lived in the area for decades and they really respect their surroundings and community. It’s beautiful at all times of the year, and the seasons really offer inspiration for my work as I look around the tree-lined streets. There’s almost a European vibe to the cafes, which is often a nice respite from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the city. What do you think are the most appealing attributes of Upper East Side living? It’s the great restaurants, cafes, community, long-standing relationships, culture and the proximity to Central Park. Do you have personal recommendations? I am a big fan of dropping in to Mediterraneo or Elio’s for a bowl of pasta. I also love The Mark Hotel and Bemelmans for a cocktail. The East Pole has always been a favorite as well. And, if you want to get fancy, how can you beat Daniel? For culture and art, it’s obvious, but an afternoon at the Guggenheim or The Met is really transformative for me. You had a big 2023. Can you talk about what you’ve been up to professionally and what your hopes are for the year? In January 2023, I opened my debut hotel, La Fourchette de Rōze, in Grand Bassam, Côte d’Ivoire. It’s been an amazing inaugural year for the property, along with the launch of our artist residency, which has since graduated Marcus Singleton and Makhtar Diouf, resulting in amazing paintings. At the end of November, I hosted the residency’s first art exhibition at the Guggenheim. I plan to take this show on the road, hosting exhibits around the world in 2024. This past January, we also kicked off the musical part of our residency, with a number of musicians joining the residents and performing live at La Fourchette. What a way to kick off the year! Where did your passion for food and cooking come from? I grew up all over the world, spending time in Côte d’Ivoire, Paris, Washington, DC and Seattle. Because we moved around a lot, the consistency of homecooked meals and tradition was a comfort and something I always leaned into. As a teenager, I underwent open heart surgery to treat a congenital condition I was born with, and while recovering, I turned to the kitchen as a hobby and way of healing. You could also say that it was in my blood to become a chef; my dad was an offshore fisherman in Alaska, and he had a real passion for cooking seafood in his down time. When it came time to choose a career path, becoming a chef was truly an obvious answer. I am particularly attuned to fine details, and this has served me well working in fine dining and owning my own business. Now, as I parlay my cooking experience into roles within the arts, the two fields intertwine really nicely and play off each other in fascinating ways.