Long Island Locavore: Farm-to-Table Dining in the Hamptons and North Fork, N.Y.

By David Graver Iconic for its sandy coastline, prestigious residential properties, and luxurious resorts, the fabled East End (the Hamptons, Montauk, the North Fork, and Shelter Island) is also earning kudos for an expanding culinary scene anchored in fresh, seasonal food. Here, chefs are combining inspiration from the eco-conscious slow-food movement with a community- minded philosophy that embraces all things local. “The East End has a strong commitment to celebrating locally produced food, from our corn-and-tomatoes farm-stand culture to creative seasonal menus at restaurants,” says Amanda Merrow, cofounder and farmer at Amber Waves , a beloved destination for locals and local restaurateurs. “We are fortunate to have such a robust foodshed that includes fresh vegetables and fruit, grains, meat, beer, wine, and, of course, fish right here on the end of the island. As growers, it’s exciting to be a part of this centuries-old East End agrarian heritage; it makes our work feel even more meaningful.” Carrots from Balsam Farms. (Photo: NICOLE GONZALEZ) The table is set for an alfresco dinner designed by organic food delivery specialists Daily Harvest and lifestyle guru Athena Calderone of EyeSwoon, served in the fields of Amber Waves. (Photo: JOE SCHILDHORNBFA.COM) Amber Waves sells most of its produce through its Amagansett market and its CSA (community-supported agriculture program). As such, Merrow says, “we only work closely with a handful of restaurants, including Almond in Bridgehampton , Il Bucco al Mare in Amagansett , and Hamptons Aristocrat in Westhampton . Having a kitchen of our own at Amber Waves, we also have the opportunity to buy from our neighboring farms for our own dishes, including Balsam Farms , Quail Hill , the Fosters in Sagaponack , Briermere Farms , Goodale Farms , Catapano Dairy Farm , Mecox Bay Dairy , Acabonac Farms , and Indian Neck .” Il Buco al Mare, a relatively new sister to the rustic Manhattan hotspot, is a standout for many locals. “The famed NYC haunt has finally landed in our little hamlet of Amagansett and it’s arguably perfect,” says Brendan Fallis—founder of design destination Fallis Studios, as well as a global DJ and digital creator—who splits his time between New York City and the Hamptons. “There’s chic seating at the bar or vibe dining in the back and even some outdoors. Here, you’ll find what I think is the best food out east.” Wölffer Estate in the Hamptons is also committed to sourcing locally, from its Sagaponack vineyard to its food and beverage outlets. “Sustainability is a core value of Wölffer, extending beyond the vineyard,” says Joey Wölffer, co-owner of Wölffer Estate Vineyard and the restaurant Wölffer Kitchen. “At Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett, we offer a creative take on local, seasonal cuisine. From local oysters served with our own verjus mignonette to a local catch of the day, it’s all about how much more we can do in our own backyard.” Il Buco al Mare (Photo: NOE DEWITT) Wölffer Kitchen. (Photo: MARK WEINBERGWÖLFFER KITCHEN) Almond in Bridgehampton. (Photo: LINDSAY MORRIS) This sentiment stretches to the end of Montauk, the easternmost point of the Hamptons—including the restaurant Mostrador at the design-forward Marram Montauk, an oceanfront hotel. “Given the ever-changing nature of our menu at Mostrador Marram, we place a heavy focus on trying to source as seasonally and locally as possible to support our community,” explains chef Fernando Trocca. “At Mostrador Marram, many of our partners come from Montauk and neighboring towns. For example, we source fresh fish, scallops, mussels, and clams from Gosman’s at Montauk Harbor, and seasonal produce, herbs, and edible flowers from local farms including Amber Waves in Amagansett and Balsam Farms in Montauk.” When it comes to summing up the East End’s love affair with local foods, Balsam Farms co-owner Ian Calder-Piedmonte says it best: “We’re lucky to farm in one of the best places in the world to grow food. Our soils and climate are conducive to producing a wide variety of high-quality crops. “We’re also lucky to have some of the best chefs in the world working in some of the finest restaurants here, and their busiest times coincide with our main harvest season,” he adds, noting that local chefs and restaurants not only purchase produce but also share knowledge, forming an information ecosystem. As a result, Balsam Farms tailors some of what it grows to the needs of the restaurant community—to the benefit of all, especially those lucky enough to taste the results.